The Elk Mountains are home to some of the most aesthetic high peaks in Colorado. Most famous for the Maroon Bells, the Aspen area hosts seven peaks over 14,000 feet above sea level with the majority of these peaks being more than just an easy hike up. Jagged, loose, and remote, the range creates a conundrum for those wishing to tick off all of the 14ers as these peaks push into technical climbing grades.
One of my earlier forays into the mountains was a backpacking and climbing trip with some college friends to Snowmass Lake, a worthwhile hike in its own right. We drove from Fort Collins to the Snowmass Mountain Trailhead and began to pack our backpacks for the two-day trip.
“Tent?” I asked my friends.
“Check”
“Water filter?”
“Check”
“Stove?”
“Check”
“Bear can?”
“Check”
We went through our gear check meticulously to make sure that we had everything we needed to be self-sufficient as we entered into the rugged backcountry. After we evenly distributed group gear and ensured we had all of our personal gear, we packed our bags and began the hike along Snowmass Creek and deeper into the valley. The first several miles go quickly as you slowly gain elevation and eventually reach the famous log jam which helps hikers cross over Snowmass Creek. We took a long water break to enjoy the sound of the rushing water, beautiful scenery, and abundant wildlife. The long hike into Snowmass Lake helped to keep the crowds down and the feelings of remoteness started to sink in. No cell phone service offered a peaceful feeling of just being out there with good company.
After crossing the log jam, the trail then goes up several switchbacks and you gain elevation rapidly as you work your way towards Snowmass Lake. Sitting at 11,000 feet, Snowmass Lake is one of the most beautiful places one can visit in Colorado and offers tranquil views of Snowmass Peak. We found a campsite close to the lake shore and began our chores of setting up our tents, purifying water, and preparing our gear for our summit push in the morning.
While watching the sun disappear behind Snowmass Peak, we talked through the plan for the following morning; wake up at 3am, start hiking by 4, try to be on the summit by 8, and back to camp by 11. Pack up camp, start the 8-mile hike back to the car, and fill our bellies with a post-climb burger by 5pm in Aspen.
Having minimal experience at the time with alpine starts, I remember hitting snooze at least once when the alarm went off at 3am. We eventually sat up still in our sleeping bags, unzipped the tent door, and started the Jetboil to get the hot water going for breakfast and coffee. We slowly got out of the tent, packed our bags, and started the hike around Snowmass Lake up the steep and loose trail to the basin below the Snowmass massif. The steep boulder field can be tricky to navigate in a headlamp and we got lost in the dark more than once.
By 6:30am, we were up around 12,500 feet in elevation, an altitude I knew started to impact my physical performance. We stopped to take a quick food and water break and watch the sunrise light up the beautiful valley around us. Soon the angle would increase significantly and we would begin the narrow class 3 ridge climb towards the summit. With incredible views in all directions, it is easy to get distracted. While being mindful of the exposure and potential of sending rocks down either side of the ridge or onto each other, we worked our way up toward the summit. We reached the summit at 8:15am and enjoyed a quick snack while taking in the views of Capitol and Mt. Sopris to the north and the Maroon Bells and Pyramid to the southwest.
The famous Ed Viesturs quote, “Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory” went through our minds as we knew that we had a long way to go before our post-climb burger and beer. We thoughtfully began the arduous descent down the narrow ridge, down the steep and loose slope towards Snowmass Lake, around the lake, back to camp, and eventually the car.
Snowmass offers a mountaineer’s dream of possibilities with the classic third-class ridge scramble and steep snow couloir climbs and many variations in between. For those who wish to learn mountain skills, technical climbing skills, push their comfort zones in the alpine, or climb unique and interesting routes that most skip over, consider hiring the locals who know the area the best. Snowmass is one of those peaks that offer an incredible learning environment that can push people into being confident to take their mountain climbing to the next level. Local expert knowledge paired with personable and friendly guides, make for a great outing in the Elk Mountains.
By Nathan Perrault